Sunday, 26 July 2015

We take pleasure in looking


We all know that feeling of gazing and being gazed upon. Through a 16mm-shot, "Notes on the Gaze", Canadian filmmaker Chelsea McMullan asked herself what do women want when they gaze at other women; her question subverting the dominant male gaze of 70s European auteurs such as Godard, Fellini and Antonioni, who's male gaze wanted to possess women.

This is McMullan's conclusion, “I think I want to be other women, to feel what it would be like to change bodies; to have a different hair texture, eye color, or body shape; to see myself through the eyes of another women.”
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Wednesday, 15 July 2015

Generation I

photo Maxim Gagarin




When it comes to individual self promotion, mainly through Instagram, brands have embraced the new obsession and others based their entire aesthetic on it. Most of the long established fashion houses will throw generation-I(nstagram) a bone and design a couple of styles that will stand out in a selfie. The rest of their collection remains as bland as ever, to ensure the beads on their shareholder's abacus tally up.


Then came Fakoshima, who embraced people's desire to be visual, who buy a design, not a logo; they have the exuberance to do whatever you want, because they can. This echoes the same energy Bodymap bought into the fashion wold in the mid 80s.





Fakoshima is the nickname of the brand’s Creative Director, Konstantin Shilyaev. Each style in the collection is heavily influenced by Kontantin's background in graphic design and styling, as well as his love for Japanese culture....Instagram ready!










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Wednesday, 8 July 2015

20/20 trending

After writing online for the past three years, I decided to try my hand at printed media and work as part of an editorial team (and to strict deadlines!). I have enjoyed it a lot and I am super proud to share my first piece with you!

You can find all my work as editorial contributor here.





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Monday, 6 July 2015

From LA, a lesson in contemporary luxury



My love for vintage eyewear prompted me to jot down a fantasy shopping list of vintage-to-be sunglasses, which I would then like to rediscover in 30 years time.

My first addition to this imaginary collection would be a design from Jacques Marie Mage's Vanguard Collection by Jerome Mage. Each design in this succinct selection, is limited to a series release of 25-175 pieces, with the intention to create rarified mementos that return true meaning to luxury, which for Jerome lies in fair and ethical workmanship, as well as design and materials.




The inspiration behind the Vanguard Collection shows Jerome's dept of art and design knowledge, as he is heavily influenced by the art deco and neo-cubist periods of the early-20th century, when artists sought to balance and combine geometrical shapes and mixed materials to create new aesthetic forms. The Vanguard designs incorporate offbeat marquetry of horn, wood and precious metals; material mixology, as they like to call it at Jacques Marie Mage's atelier.





My favourite style is the Clara, named after Nancy Clara Cunard, the bohemian heiress and activist who helped popularise African culture in the early 20th century and socialised with the who’s who of the era’s avant-garde.






In my view, taking risks is an important prerequisite for contemporary luxury. Jerome provides a lesson in this as well by mixing traditional craftsmanship and materials with a blast of rich colour!



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Friday, 12 June 2015

Between the folds



Sometimes the beauty of eyewear is elevated by an unusual angle, like with these foldable Van Buren by GLCO.
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Monday, 25 May 2015

OAhhhhMC!

Here is great testament to what it actually takes to break a pair of handmade sunglasses. I like the fact OAMC actually show how they EVENTUALLY break.



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Friday, 1 May 2015

Red Hot Right Now!



Alfred Kerbs is one of those brands who like to share their inspiration, not just the one behind the product itself but also what inspires the look, I am talking beyond the moodboards and down to the very essence of what makes each one of us unique; genes, and specifically the one that gives 0.6% of the population their unique aesthetic beauty. Red hot hair.

Avant-garde for an eyewear brand is also their advertising campaign. Shot like a fashion editorial, where not all models are wearing sunglasses. More of these, please!


photo ed van der elsken




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Monday, 23 March 2015

Ourhouse of Termite





I blame it on my gannet-like curiosity, I am intrigued by what lead to a compelling design and I appreciate it more when I take a peak behind the curtain. Termite's colour palette this season was so strong I had to know what had influenced it.

The designers looked at Max Bill' geometric paintings and the Bauhaus for inspiration, when designing their latest collection, “OURHOUSE”. Another strong influence came from the sculptor John Chamberlain who worked a mix of texture from compressed metals and plastics.

Like with the best designers the inspiration isn't obvious, you appreciate how it's been transformed, into something contemporary and new.

Termite's code has always been a balance between the ‘industrialised’ and the warm and tactile; mixed materials, metal bolts and hinges with birch wood, so looking at Modernism just made this collection even stronger.






The collection combined tinted crystal acetates as well as marble for an eclectic feel, showing a confident sense of colour and pattern combinations.





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Friday, 6 March 2015

Wind Trace Forgotten

Gentle Monster define their collections as luxury experiments, rich in narrative. The dark hart of this Korean brand's 2015 collection, called 'Wind Trace Forgotten', talks of lost memories, nature's cycle of death and rebirth and forgotten pirate flag motifs.

The hand-embroidery applied to each shield of "Black Bart" and "Black Sam" is inspired by the 17th Century's Golden Age of Piracy and the practice of collecting ensigns as a lucky charm.











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Monday, 16 February 2015

Bois2

I am into new materials and craft these days, one I came across some time ago is Bois2. Made with recycled wood and acetate, the wood powder comes from timber factories and the frames are completely recyclable.






The inclusions in the material create beautiful patterns and they remind me of these Botanica creations by Formafantasma.


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